jeudi, juillet 31, 2008

31.07

Am back in Salvador…and I’m still in love with it!
I guess I am finally getting used to the hostel and backpacker’s lifestyle! As I reached Salvador early this morning and was tired… like all the other guys usually do, today I finally just removed my pants and slept with my underwear.

Chapada Diamantina

29.07

Today, I saw one of the most beautiful sights of the world. The poço Azul is a small cave with metallic blue water and a small opening atop the cave allowing the sun rays to shine on this small enclosing. The water is crystal clear and you can see the bottom of the cave through the water. We were allowed to snorkel. Amazing!


30.07

At 420 meters, the cachoeira de Fumaça is the longest waterfall of South America. As you trek and you reach the top of the hill, you are amazed at the height of his cliff. Then, we get to lie down on the edge of the cliff and look straight down and we see the waterfall. It’s not the biggest waterfall, it’s quite slender actually. But the height is so high that the water does not reach the ground. Halfway through the cliff, the water turns into mist and sprinkles of water reach the ground. Quite a sight!



After Fumaça, we went to another smaller waterfall with a pond where we could swim.


Between yesterday and today, I fulfilled two of my dreams… swimming inside a cave filled with water and swimming underneath a waterfall! :)

28.07 Lençois

Lençois

It is known as the sleepy town. There is a very calm atmosphere as you walk around this very small cobbled street town with small colorful houses. And you hear a kind of silence, as there aren’t too many cars on the streets. Lençois is the portal to the Chapada Diamantina National Park – a supposedly very beautiful must see place in Brazil. There used to be a lot of diamonds in this region earlier and hence its name. The diamond mining stopped in the 1950s.

I had trouble finding a tour to go with since I’m running a bit short of money and so, I have to resort to my credit card. But, I finally succeeded. :)

I explored “Serrano”, which is a small walk away from the town. It’s a big pinkish rocky hill where water flows, and when the water settles on rock ditches, it turns into a reddish maroon rustic color. Very pretty.

I felt like I was in one of the episodes of Lost where I’m just walking and then stumbling into something very beautiful!

27.07

I guess words just aren’t enough for Salvador. Went to an Olodum concert, and… the result is another video -

dimanche, juillet 27, 2008

26.07 - Candomblé

Last night I had the opportunity to go watch a Candomblé ceremony. Candomblé is an African religion where they believe that everyone is protected by an angel. I forgot their word for the angels, but its translation is angel-head – meaning, each head has an angel. There are various kinds of angels (for instance, a beautiful person can have the angel of beauty). They believe you can get possessed by your angel, which translates into a good thing. The religion believes that everyone one of us has free-will, there is no sin, everyone is reincarnated as an ancestor of the same family and it is identified as a happy religion.

When the Portuguese had Africans for slaves here in Brazil, they did not let them practice their religion. But at the same time, as was told to us, they did not want to convert them to Christianity, because they were not sure if the Africans were human or animals. So the Africans resorted to practicing their religion in secret. They would hide in basements, and while the Portuguese had ceremonies, they practiced theirs. Eventually, the Portuguese heard strange noises and got to know that something was going on. When asked, the Africans responded, we saw you perform a ceremony, so we are trying to do the same, we are trying to connect with your God – A big lie! Anyway, the Portuguese let them be.

In the 19th century, with the end of slavery, the Africans were given the freedom to practice their religion freely. However, the Christians were not very happy with this, because Candomblé was gaining in popularity. And so the police stopped them. And again they started practicing in secret. In the 1960s, as America experienced the black revolution, the blacks in Brazil were fighting for the Black Culture. In 1989, finally their religion was recognized as official.

I don’t know how correct the above information is, but this is what I understood from our guide. Wikipedia, will probably have more accurate information.

Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures of the ceremony, but it went something like this –

It starts with a procession, where everybody is dressed either in white or in light colors. The women wear really nice long bulging white dresses. Everybody goes around the bungalow, chanting something and a few men carry a carrier with a white bed sheet. Then, everybody enters the bungalow which is a big hall.
They place the carrier in the middle of the floor on top of scattered leaves. The drummers start playing the drums, everyone gathers in a circle and bows down to the carrier. Then, the chief utters some words (he was actually shouting), and he goes and bows down at the carrier. And he gets possessed. He is in a trance and starts dancing. Then one by one, all the others go and bow down at the carrier, and most of them get possessed and into a trance. And so, everyone starts dancing to the drums in a possessed state.

Then they take away the carrier. And the people who are possessed have to go out and change costumes. The men come back with bright colored clothes and the women are still in white. So now, there is just one big space and they dance in it. The drums are playing louder and louder and they dance and then, sometimes they hug each other and it goes on and on. We didn’t see the end because our guide told us it was time to go.

I wish I was a believer. Unfortunately, I was just thinking that this is a show for us, the tourists. But I don’t know.

I liked the music and they really danced well. A few tourists were very disturbed by the whole ceremony.

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Today I walked in Pelourinho and saw this -

25.07 Salvador da Bahia

Salvador da Bahia

Before coming to this trip I had a deep fixation with both Buenos Aires and Salvador da Bahia. Buenos Aires has met my expectations, which is great because I had really high expectations of it.

But Salvador has, simply put, wowed me!

I had read in quite a few forums and other sites, that after Rio de Janeiro, many tourists thought Salvador to be just okay. For me it’s been the complete opposite.

After the perfect landscape, perfect beaches, perfect bodies, the publicized poverty (“come visit our favela!”) of Rio de Janeiro, I find Salvador to be… human!

I don’t know what it is about this place that just makes me love it…the music everywhere? The people with their mocking smiles as they are going to get you for more money? The Capoeira everywhere? The beaches which do not have the perfect long stretch of white sand, but are still so beautiful? The Africans? (By the way, I so want to go to Africa!!!!!!) The historic city center – the Pelourinho - with its small houses of all colors?

I don’t know.

Probably all of it. But mainly, I think, the music. There is music just about everywhere in this city. Everywhere!

I Love Salvador! Did I say I love Salvador? I really do Love Salvador!

Founded in the 16th century, it was the first capital of Brazil until it was replaced by Rio and then by Brasilia; it’s now the 3rd largest city of Brazil. In Salvador, the Black Africans have retained their culture, and presumably so, they have succeeded in doing that like no other place in the world.

To finish off the first day in Salvador, a bit of Capoeira -

24.07

On the road again….towards Salvador da Bahia.

23.07

I sat on the steps of my hostel looking at the skyline of Rio de Janeiro. My bags were packed and placed on the step behind me. I waited for my taxi, and at that moment the Irish guy I grew to know in the last few days, connected his Ipod to the amplifier. I don’t know what song he played, but it was a real nice piece.

Such a simple moment.

I wish I could take this moment and pack it tightly in a box, so that whenever I open it, I could get that feeling back.

I felt full.

Unfortunately, you don’t pack your feelings. They come and they go.

22.07

For my last full day at Rio de Janeiro, thought I would spend it in Ipanema Beach.
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« Tu es français ? »

« Ah, Indien ! Mais tu parles français quand même ? »

« Tu es né au Maroc ? »

« Ben, ça, ce n’est pas banal ! »

:) :) :)

lundi, juillet 21, 2008

La Cidade Maravilhosa de Rio De Janeiro

16.07

I walk out of the hostel and see a “Durga” graffiti. I walk a little more, two scantily dressed women are talking and gesturing forcefully. A boy starts talking to me, I nod and continue walking; a few moments later I see a stone swooshing past me. He aimed it at me.

Forward on, there are brightly painted steps in the midst of graffiti walls where intoxicated men and women are dancing to the tunes of the morning. The black, the white, the brown, the suited men, the business women, the poor, the prostitutes, the transvestites, the women showing off their assets, the men theirs, the long bearded hat man playing “girl from Ipanema” on his drums, the ones in the square dressed in all colors and dancing in circles, the poor looking at you and muttering something, the fat women distributing pamphlets, the thin women distributing pamphlets, the angry men distributing pamphlets, the ones who don’t really care that they’re distributing pamphlets, the “normal” people, the gringos, the other tourists, the police, the people, the people, the people…

The vibrancy, the energy, the way of showing what each person is, the mixture, the way they blend it, the contrast, the contrast so close to each other and living with one another.

First impression of Rio De Janeiro.

Among the noise, the people, the life, the fear I walked on the streets and then I reached this:


As I sat on the sand, a guy behind me passed in his cycle singing aloud a song in Portuguese. At the beach the intensity of the city is lost....

Rio De Janeiro.


17.07

I went to Ipanema beach. I felt safe. It didn't feel like Rio to me. Although it is part of it.


Went to Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf)… A hill top where you can have a view of Rio Da Janeiro. Saw the sunset over there. Breathtaking! I finally found competition for Paris! Paris might not be the most beautiful city in the world for me anymore! It’s a tough choice. Here nature prevails, in Paris architecture prevails.

18.07

I took up a percussion class. Learnt a few Samba and Capoeira beats on the Conga, the Pandeiro, the Tan-Tan and the Tamborim! Went to this percussion artist whose house is in Santa Teresa. His toothless grandmother welcomed us with open arms and hugged us.




Santa Teresa is set on a hill, it’s known as the bohemian part of Rio de Janeiro. There are lots of artists living here. It’s full of small colorful houses, a tram runs through it, there are many cozy restaurants and cafés. Very very nice.

Also went to a photo exhibition of old pictures from Rio and Salvador da Bahia. Really nice.

19.07

Walked all the way up to Christ the Redeemer. The huge statue of Christ with widespread hands overlooks the city. The view from the top is supposed to be spectacular. I actually preferred the view from Pão de Açucar – maybe it had to do with the fact that there were just too many tourists at the Christ site and plus the day was a bit hazy, so the view was not very clear. The walk though, was really nice. The statue is on top of the Tijuaca National Park. Hence, it was very green. Passed a small waterfall on the way too!

I finally explored Rio’s night life. In an old building, a huge hall, few tables near the balcony giving way to the busiest night life street of Rio (Lapa), a huge dance floor, 10 musicians with their instruments playing the samba, the Brazilians moving to the rhythm in perfection, Capairinha in hand. My hostel mate showed me a few samba moves - needless to say, I sucked! But all in all, really nice night!

20.07

To the beach!

21.07

Spent my day in Copacabana. The most famous beach in the world – a stretch of 4 kms of white sand, clear waters and possibly the worlds’ most beautiful bodies. Opposite the beach are tall buildings.

Watched a football match on the beach. The Brazilians are totally resolute to their reputation. Whether with a coke can, garbage, a roll of paper stuck together with scotch tape, anything round shaped, actual balls, they LOVE football. It’s everywhere!

15.07

Flew back to Sao Paulo and caught a connecting bus to Rio De Janeiro.

lundi, juillet 14, 2008

14.07 Last day in Peru

Back in Lima. I had a 180 degrees view of the landscape during the 19hr bus ride from Cusco to Lima because I was sitting in the driver’s seat but on the second floor! :)

This is my last day in Peru! :(

13.07 The little things

The beetle is very much alive in this part of the world!


In a lot of places, such as grocery stores, petrol pumps, etc. in Peru, they hang posters of women in bikini or nude women… I guess to attract customers…these women on posters are usually gringos!

A lot of houses have a cross with 2 bulls on their roofs. I asked a Peruvian guy on the train, and he said that they usually put that when they just build/buy the house. Most Peruvians are Catholics, hence the cross, and the 2 bulls represent production. They use bulls for farming, and hence, it’s a good luck sign for the house so that the production (finance) of the house is good.

In Brazil, a lot of bus stands have TVs inside a locker. And when it’s match day, the lockers are opened and people waiting for the bus, can watch the football match!

I love the small taxis in Peru! :)

12.07 Machu Picchu



The forgotten city of Machu Picchu

Since all the treks were already overbooked, and the only ones available were exorbitantly priced non-Inca 4-5 day treks, I was forced to take the train – the only other option to get to Machu Picchu.

But to protest against my grief, I endured the walk from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes is the last train stop and everybody takes a bus from there to get to Machu Picchu. I was the only crazy fuck who walked. It only takes 1h30, I don't understand why the others didn't do the same!?

It’s something to walk alone in nature… I don’t know how quite to describe it. It’s kind of magical, and you feel a sense of freedom of a different form.

Once I reached Machu Picchu and the first sight I got of it, I started trembling and tearing. There is something in that place. Not only its beauty, its surrounding mountains, the clouds hovering on top of the mountains, the mystery of the place, but something else… there are very strong vibrations in that place and you can feel them, even though it’s filled with tourists. I couldn’t move for 20 minutes and stayed put in a corner at the entrance and just looked at the place. Then, I started exploring it and finally went on top and kept on looking at it until closing time.

In 1911, an American historian, Hiram Bingham, was traveling around Peru and asking locals if there were ruins anywhere. Once he reached close to Machu Picchu, some locals told him that there were a few ruins behind the mountain they were pointing at. There are many explanations trying to solve the mistery of Machu Picchu, but to this day, no one really knows. Some say it was already a forgotten city before the Spanish conquered Peru.

11.07 Mountain Biking in the Sacred Valley



Steep down slopes that make you lose control of the bike, inclinations that literally take your breath away and made the others wait for me (I am in horrible physical shape!), a landscape that keeps your mouth open all the time - white mountain peaks among other mountains, green fields, golden fields, rugged paths - my knee hurt, my shoulders hurt, my ass hurt, I hit one of my balls while cycling on a big stone (boy that hurts!), my hair was as rigid as wood, I was full of dust… but there is no experience that compares to this!!!

I thought cycling with Jo along the Mediterranean Sea in Barcelona was an amazing experience, but this doesn’t even begin to compare with this! It was absolutely incredible!

Our guide said that the second time in his life he had done this biking tour with some tourists, the next day, he couldn't pee.

No problems for me on that front! Phewww…
We went biking up to the circular crop terraces in Moray and the Salineras...

10.07 The capital of the Incas - Cusco

I did it Indian eshtyle! The bus ride was freezing, so I put my whole head under the blanket!

Cusco is too too beautiful! It feels like a medieval town. Small roads, most of them cobbled, small houses, in white and in stones, small cafés, small restaurants… it is just so pretty!

It was the capital of Peru when the Incas ruled, until the Spaniards came and conquered it. There are still a lot of stone walls existing that were built by the Incas. It’s just so nice! I am at a loss for words…

mercredi, juillet 09, 2008

09.07 ¡La Huelga!

I was supposed to leave for Cusco at 8.30am, but there is a bus strike. So my ticket has been postponed to 9pm, which means I will reach Cusco at 3am in freezing temperature! God help me!

08.07 The highest navigable lake in the world – El Lago Titicaca



When I was at the Cañon Del Colca, a Peruvian told me that if I found Arequipa very beautiful, I would be shocked by Puno and Cusco. They are supposed to be too beautiful.

When I reached Puno, I asked myself why he said that. Today I found out.

When we reached Las Islas Flotantes de Los Uros (the floating islands of Uros), I couldn’t speak. I was overwhelmed. And when we reached La Isla Taquile, I couldn’t stop looking at the color of the lake.

Las Islas Flotantes de Los Uros

The Aymaras, which is a pre-Inca community, wanted to get away from the violence of the mainland, which was dominated by the Incas. And so they created their own islands. They collected tons and tons of tortora reeds (it grows on the lake), which looks a lot like hay, and created their islands in the lake of Titicaca. Today, there are still around 50 such man made floating islands, and although there are only few pure blooded Aymaras still living, they still exist and they lead pretty much the same kind of lives as they did before.

They live mostly without money and get what they need from the mainland through barter trades during special market days, and for the things they can’t get through barter, well, they depend on us, the tourists, as they sell us small handicrafts.

It was really awesome to listen to the chief of the island as he explained to us how they create their islands and how they live their lives.

He even invited us to stay with them if we ever wish so, and said that we are welcome to have our wedding here, where they usually pull together a few islands together to have a big party!

Now there’s one place that I might actually consider getting married in!

La Isla Taquile

A more conventional natural island, this is the home of the Quechuas, the descendents of the Incas. It's a place where the women are considered stronger then the men. The result of this - you see many women transporting goods on their backs throughout the islands, and the men are left to knitting!

This is the place where you notice the beauty of the Lake Titicaca. Its color is shining blue and surrounded by mountains. And I got a small peak into Bolivia! I couldn’t stop staring at the lake.

The group shared a meal together which was cooked by the islanders. Strangest thing is that Peruvian food also reminds me a lot of Indian food, except without spices. They have things which look like pakodas, briyani and a soup which very much looks and tastes like dhal. It's a good thing that we had an option between fish and omelet. I would have looked conspicuous eating everything off my plate except the fish!

07.07 Puno


Puno

Most of the houses in Puno are in bricks. Neither painted nor cemented. As you reach, you see this deluge of bricked houses giving way to the blue of Lake Titicaca. Puno seems to be a very poor town, mostly surviving on tourism.
There is one pedestrian street filled with restaurants, shops, etc. which does not have any bricked construction. This is where you find most of the people and most of the tourists.
If it wasn’t for Lake Titicaca, this place would probably be unknown.

I am so close to Bolivia!

Tomorrow I will be closer, as I will go island hopping in the lake.
Continuing my stay away from hostel life to get a bit of space for myself… single rooms are cheap in Peru, so I decided to make the most of it! :)

06.07 El Cañon del Colca

The Colca Canyon

The bus picked us up at 2am. At 5.45 am, we were having breakfast in the capital of the Colca region – Chivay. It can best be described as a very small tiny town… more like a village. There, I saw the sun rising over a mountain. Splendid!

After breakfast we went to two small villages that have been repeatedly destroyed by volcano eruptions and then reconstructed. The last eruption was in 1991. There, the locals, dressed in their traditional dress, awaited us, the tourists, to sell a few souvenirs and do a small Peruvian dance in the village square.

And on we went to the canyon. Our guide told us it was the deepest canyon in the world. The Lonely Planet states that it is the second deepest, falling short by 160 meters to a neighboring canyon. The things that impressed me most were the terraces on the mountains, which are supposed to be a pre-Inca creation.

Once we reached our highest point of the canyon, we all awaited the flight of the Condor. When it spreads its wings, the condor can measure up to 3 meters. As I looked at some of them from afar, I told myself these look like any other bird. But we were later surprised by a Condor who flew right above us, and yes, this bird is pretty huge!

The Colca Canyon deserves more than a day’s guided trip. It deserves a trek and an overnight stay. To be surrounded by mountains and take in what they have to offer. But I was short on time and money, and so, this had to do for me. Absolutely worth it! Beautiful, large and calm….

dimanche, juillet 06, 2008

05.07 La ciudad blanca de Arequipa


On the way to Arequipa and in Arequipa

Called the white city, with 5 volcanic mountains in its vicinity, and instructions in the room of what to do in case of an earthquake, this is Arequipa - located at around 2500 meters above sea level.

With buildings throughout the city of not more than 1 or 2 floors, you can clearly see the Andes in their brown splendor and their white covered tops.

It is a very beautiful city. By far, the most charming city I’ve seen yet on this trip. The Arequipanos are rosy cheeked, and smiley. They are beautiful!

Ps: it is the first time in this trip that I have my own private room with my own private bathroom…the first thing I did was take a looooong shower! :)

04.07

C’est l’anniversaire à ma soeur!!!

I’m going to Arequipa!! The locals say that when the moon separated from the earth, they forgot to take Arequipa with it…

I’m going to find out why…

03.07

She is in her 50s… 2 years ago, she sold her house in Quebec, gave up everything she had and set sail… She’s been in her boat ever since… and now, she is in Lima where she had set a meeting with her son - they will spend 3 weeks together and then she'll hop back in her boat...

She is full of stories and full of life!!! We spent hours talking… I told her I wish I had the courage to just go sailing and she told me “you know what? If you really want to do it, you can!” and she smiled.

We shared 3 meals together – along with her son and another Quebécoise – and the 3 meals included conversations about shit or fart…

:) :) :)

02.07


Lima

I was lucky enough to meet with Peruvians through a friend. And spend the day hanging with them through different squares, walking, hanging and drinking... :)
Memory fails me, but I was supposed to have learnt the word for big cock in Spanish…. Crap! Fuck my brain cells!
Drank some “pisco sower”… absolutely great! The national drink of Peru… The Chileans might argue about this…

01.07 El Paìs de los Incas!!!

I am in Peru!!! Electricity cuts, cold water, dirty sheets, traffic…no metro…public transport consists of an over crowded bus, where the ticket controller is standing half way out of the door and banging on the bus shouting “Arequipa Avenida, Arequipa Avenida!!”… or a taxi with no meter where you end up being taken for a ride for….
I feel right at home!!! :) so far, I love it!!

30.06


I sat on the steps of the MAM museum in Avenida Paulista, and looked at the people… and, I realized that I was in Brasil!


I brought two books on this trip – one is Marcus Aurelius’ “Meditations” which is absolutely brilliant and the other is “Night train to Lisbon” which quotes Marcus Aurelius’ “Meditations”…. The funny the little weird “coincidences" which keep happening…
Or is each element connected to the other to make up what we call our life, although never ever compromising our freedom? I don’t know…

29.06 Sao Paulo


Sao Paulo is a big city, a very big city. As I landed, it dawned on me how small Buenos Aires is compared to this. Called the concrete jungle, it is a city within a city. According to my taxi driver, around 13 million people live in the centro, and in total, which includes greater Sao Paulo, the population amounts to approximately 25 million people.

The city is submerged by tall buildings, but as you walk, you notice that there are a lot of small streets with smaller houses of all colors. It is very green too.

But the main thing about Brasil is its people. Half of the pedestrians could be supermodels. You get the feeling that they love their sports and their arts. Music, paintings, art museums, graffiti, art is all over the place.

As I sat in the flea market near Vila Madalena, I was amazed at the contrast of people. I sat for 3 hours on the steps and just looked at them. You see whites, blacks, browns, Japanese…. all types of people! And as you sit, and other people join you, you notice that everyone speaks to everyone… it’s like one big family!

Unfortunately, whenever someone spoke to me, all I could say was “Nao falha portugues”…. :)

I think it’s the first time that I’m in a country where I have absolutely no notion of what people are saying and they have absolutely no notion of what I’m saying…

28.06 I present to you....BRASIL

27.06 I did it!


I am truly not much of a dancer; but I pushed myself to a Tango class on my last day here in Buenos Aires, and I dare say it was ABSOLUTELY FUCKING BRILLIANT!!! At the end of the class, the teacher pointed at me and picked me to dance in the middle of the group, and I went like “oh, fuck!” in my mind....but my partner and I were applauded...of course, I had the support of the locals as soon as I went into the center because I was wearing the Boca Juniors Jersey.... they started shouting and applauding "Por la camiseta! Por la camiseta!”.... I must have turned red.... all in all, an unforgettable experience....

I danced the Tango in Buenos Aires!

Unfraggingbelievable!

I don't think I am done with this city....

But for now, I can look forward to Brasil and Peru.... and this is a nice feeling.